Tuesday we flew from Luxor back to Cairo. Originally we'd planned to take a train for that leg too, but it is much longer, about 9 hours, so we changed our minds. I'd previously taken advantage of having internet access while in South Korea to book the flight from Luxor to Cairo so we didn't need to take the train.
Egypt from the planeSwitzerland from the plane
Wednesday we had our flight from Cairo to Zurich, Switzerland. The full heatwave hit Cairo and it was 114F when we left. It was a pleasant 61F in Zurich. I think Yanmei was happy to be out of Egypt. As the plane started descend to Zurich, she looked out the window and announced she likes here more. We were still at 25,000 feet. 🙂 Our flight was late so we didn't see much of Zurich today, we'll explore tomorrow
This concludes the planned parts of our trip. We have no further flights booked, although we'll need to book the flight to Canada soon before it gets too expensive. We're considering skipping Iceland now. Yanmei's Schengen visa is good for 41 days, and that includes Iceland, so if we don't go there we have more time in mainland Europe. We have Eurail passes for traveling around Europe by train. Now we are hoping to just float around, if we like a place, stay longer, if not move on.
I arranged for a tour of the West Bank of the Nile for Monday morning at 8am. The sun sets in the West so ancient Egyptians considered that side for the dead. I really hoped Yanmei would come, but she felt sore and tired. Also she does not like tombs.
First we went to the Temple of Hatshepsut. The temple was extensively restored in the early 20th century by a Polish expedition. This is the same Queen I mention in my previous post about Karnak. Her temple was partially destroyed by her son, and several of her images were chipped out. Others he replaced her name with his. How could he do this? Well to rule in 1500 BC she portrayed herself as a strong man in the pictures, even including a beard in some of the images. My guide said that she wore a fake beard in public ceremonies. Of course the people knew she was a woman, so it wasn't a disguise, it was that she wanted to show she could do anything a man could do.
Temple of HatshepsutStatues of Queen HatshepsutInner room with many of her images chipped out. Also notice the blue starry roof. Amazing that these pictures are over 3500 years old.Panorama, unadorned tombs for the workers in the mountains
A funny thing is Hatshepsut is portrayed as slender and beautiful, although with a beard. She made a record of her expedition to the land of Punt, and in the inscription the queen of Punt is portrayed as fat and ugly, haha. However Hatshepsut's mummy has been found and it turns out she was very fat herself.
After the temple we went to the Valley of the Kings. They have a strict no photos rule there. This actually worked out okay, because I forgot to recharge my camera's battery, so it was almost dead by this point.
A regular ticket to the valley lets you enter three tombs of your choice, among the ones that are open to the public (about 10 of the 63 known tombs). The tombs were built between 1500 and 1000 BC. I went into the ones my guide recommended, which were KV6, KV11 and KV14. The numbers represent the order of discovery. All the lower number ones have been open since antiquity. King Tut's tomb is KV62, but it is small. My guide told me when the king is crowned he starts construction of his tomb, so the longer the reign the more elaborate the tomb.
The interesting thing is when the king dies they stop work on the tomb, mummify him and seal the tomb. So the tombs are not complete. KV14 had the best example of this. The chambers near the entrance were fully complete and engraved and painted, then deeper in the walls are carved but not painted, then smooth walls with lines drawn on where they planned to carve the figures and hieroglyphics, and finally a rough hewn tunnel to start the next chamber. Really interesting stuff, and also amazing preserved for being 3500 years old. Of course they were all looted except for King Tut's tomb. The tombs have high ceilings and wide corridors so they don't feel claustrophobic.
After the Valley of the Kings, we stopped at the Colossi of Memnon, so named by the Greeks. They are actually 3350 year old statues of pharaoh Amenhotep III. They are 18m tall and weigh an estimated 720 tons each. The north one (right of me in the picture) was severely damaged in the 27BC earthquake. The upper body fell off and the lower part cracked. The crack caused the statue to make a noise when the wind was correct. It became known as the singing statue. About 200 years later the Romans repaired and restored it, which is why it looks like it is made of several blocks, because it is. The restoration sealed the crack so it stopped singing.
Colossi of Memnon
Finally I went back to the hotel where Yanmei was having breakfast although it was actually lunch time. After the meal we relaxed for a while and rested. We spent some time near the pool on the bank of the Nile.
Relaxing YanmeiSunset over the Nile
I think we're both a little tired of Egypt and we are looking forward to Europe.
Until now, David and I have traveled 45 days and went to Hawaii, Taiwan, China, Korea, and Egypt. During the one and half month trip, today is another bad day I feel.
The first day was in a morning of Tainan, Taiwan. Living in a place with no kitchen and dark(first floor), it was raining heavily outside and no drinking water, no kitchen, and no umbrella inside room. I felt so frustrated and regretted I did not look at their on line description carefully. The worst feeling came to me after I found all other destinations would rain, rain, and continue to rain for one week. Our plan of travel around the Taiwan Island had to stop. What a waste of time and energy! Super frustrated!
View from hotel balcony in Aswan
Today is the second day that I feel very bad. This morning, we got up early in order to catch up the 7am train to Luxor. I took a picture of the beautiful view from our balcony. David wants to go to Luxor earlier, and even though I wanted to visit the museum, dam, or have a boat tour in the beautiful Hotel area, I agreed to leave.
Train station
No wonder no one suggested us to take the train, even if it was first class, it was absolutely dirty! The seat's cloth covers must have not been washed for at least one year, the window was big but full of dust and dirt. The bathroom, you do not want to see it. David told me he would not drink water as he smell some terrible from the bathroom. After sitting on the seat awhile, I started feel itchy of my arm and back. Hope there were no fleas there.
David is in the 4th row
Every choice has the bad side and the good side. I took several great pictures of local people inside the train and at some small train stations passed by. And I saw the beautiful countryside life of local people. Many people use donkeys as transportation. I saw more than 10 donkeys rode by people with plants through the window. Banana trees, corn, mangoes, Nile river, fields, horse wagons….Three and half hour was fast and we arrived Luxor station. I thought everything bad passed, but NO! It just started.
River Nile
Yesterday, we asked the hotel information desk about how far from Luxor train station to Hilton Hotel, should we ask hotel arrange a taxi for us. The guy told us it's not necessary just need to take a car only 20-30 Egypt pounds and it is a very safe area.
When we just got out of train, a guy told us in English the exit was that way. We said thanks to him and he asked us to take his taxi and I refused and told him do not follow us. However, he did not listen and even called another younger guy follow us as well. I told him again, I want to find a taxi myself, do not follow us. However, they followed us anyway. Then we went out and I found a taxi I like and was about to talk with the driver and open the door. These 2 guys and another younger guys quickly moved towards the car and yelling something at us. David said to me “what are you doing? Just sit into their car.” ” I just want to find a taxi I like and I do not trust that guy.” I thought I had the right to chose a car I like. However I was wrong. I guess they would not allow another car to leave if we sit in the car. It was scary, I wonder if I sit into the car they would hit the window or beat the driver.
Toilet on the train
Looking at the tense situation I caused, I realized this is Egypt and I gave up. I sat in the car with anger and fear. Ridiculously, the “tourist hunter”, the old guy who is not a driver but he sit into our car beside the driver and will go to Hilton Hotel with us. What he is going to do? I asked him to leave and he refused. He introduced himself and asked our nationalities and wants to help us to arrange our trip in Luxor and even shook hands with David. I guess David was about agree with him and said we would think about it and just leave the phone number for us. [David: I was never going to agree, I was just pretending to be interested until we got to the hotel.] We already had been hunted and had a bad tours from Cairo airport. No more, “We will think about it.” We will not pay now. One lesson is enough.
Feeling very itchy, I had a shower right away when we arrived in our room. I felt better but still itchy even now I am writing my diary. After the shower, we went to a hotel restaurant to eat some food. Unfortunately, the only Asian restaurant is closed at lunch time and we went to another one. After ordering, another guy came to us and asked us to move to upstairs, then I found 2 died flies or moths on the table. Then I looked at the table, it's dusty! I used the napkin moved through the chair arm, the napkin had a big dirt mark on it. I asked a guy to move back to downstairs. David must think I was trying to find troubles, but I told him, I am starving and just want to find a clean table to eat some clean food. I know he has the personality of being nice to others, I do not. I worked in 5 star hotel before, I know how an international hotel are supposed to be, especial Hilton is international, they would know. David was reluctant to ask for moving, I just left and went back to downstairs room myself. I found it is much cleaner and I messaged David and asked him to come back. Then, I found the kitchen and told the guy to bring food to downstairs instead of upstairs. After a while, David walked to the downstairs room. Food came and the pasta was good but with a very small portion, I was not full at all. I would just eat more plain bread. The waiters asked me if it is ok to cook more. I guess they would charge us more money! I said no. Then they said they would not charge more money, who trust them? Also I felt the pasta was not as fresh as bread, just have bread then. Looking around the hotel, few tourists here. What's wrong? Although it is a low season, should not be this low. [Yanmei: Later I realized, the specialty of the hotel is cooking less for you first, if you are not full, they would cook or bring you more, without paying more money].
No wonder local people are crazy about asking tips and money, tourists are so few! They would not care about the image or reputation of their country, they just want money right away without thinking about anything else. Feeling so bad, coming to a …country and met …people.
In the afternoon, David went on a tour to somewhere, I just stayed in hotel room and washed my dirty clothes and had a rest.
In the evening, David came back. As we think the outside restaurants might be not clean, we decided to have a dinner in the hotel. We went to the Asian restaurant, I ordered wok fried vegetables and steamed rice. Omg! What they brought to me, a small plate of steamed veggies with some salty sauce, I could not see any oil in the dish. Why did they call it “fried”? How did they fry it without oil? But they were nice to bring a second plate of veggies and bowl of ice. What I can say? I should appreciate it, at least I am full but not hungry this time.
I felt this was a bad day as I was itchy and hungry nearly the whole day and traumatized by the scene in front of the train station. 🙁
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