生于忧患死于安乐 – trip from India to Nepal to Kunming

March 11, 2018, Sunday, Rain in Kathmandu

”生于忧患,死于安乐” is a saying in China. It means if you feel very safe and easy, you are going to die or fail; if you are alert to potential risks and difficulties, you can survive.

Today, we are going to fly to Kunming, China from Kathmandu, Nepal. Looking back at the 4 days we lived there, a lot disappointments. I underestimated the difficulties, hygiene problem, and pollution of this country. It was ten years ago, a friend told me how nice it was. Actually, the dust pollution is even worse than Delhi, India. The food and and water has potential risks too. David got a few times of diarrhea yesterday. He also got headache. I searched on line about Typhoid. His symptoms meets the most: headache, constipation, sore throat, diarrhea, feeling of nausea. OMG, if he got Typhoid, he might die. I asked him to see the doctor a few times, he refused me every time. 15,000 people died of Typhoid in 2015 in India. [David: I was vaccinated for Typhoid before this trip] He might have got it in India. I am also at risk too. I should be careful, washing hands is very important.

Luckily, David felt okay this morning after having some Chinese Medicine for cold and western medicine for diarrhea. His western habits can cause him troubles here.  He assumes everything (glasses, spoons, forks) is clean, whereas I assume it is dirty and wipe it off.  He also eats with his fingers, like toast or naan, which is dangerous because even if you wash your hands it is easy to touch something dirty.  I got some phlegm in my throat this morning, so I had the Chinese herbs right away.

“You survive if you predict the potential problems and risks, you die if you underestimate them”.  We did prepare well for our trip in India. David got a lot information from his Indian coworker. We chose the best season to travel and we lived in an expensive hotel. We only drank bottled water and even used it when we brushed our teeth. Therefore, we successfully prevented the risks and problems.

While at the airport, I searched the temperature of Kunming. It is chilly, only 17 degrees, I reminded David to wear his jacket. Suddenly, we heard thunder and saw pouring rain outside of the waiting room. David asked, “it is thundering and lightning, why are people still boarding? If it is in the US, the flight will be delayed”. “I hope I will not die on the way to China.” I was scared but I teased him. Then we boarded in the rain.

I suddenly thought about writing a will for my son, handwriting is better, because it counts even without witness. Who knows what will happen today or tomorrow. Just last month, my friend Lea almost died on the flight to Hawaii. One of the engines had a problem 1 hour before arriving to Honolulu. As they were on the Pacific Ocean, they could not land. The flight was shaking for whole hour and might get fire when landing. She told me the story on WeChat and my tears came out. Luckily, my friend survived. She does not fly as frequently as me…

I missed my son yesterday and texted him twice. He replied to me this morning. I got up with my back pain. David said that missing him gives me tension, and that tension always manifests there. This is an important year for him, the second year of high school. He must have a lot stress and taking many exams. Should I stay and support him in Beijing? I do not know. It seems he does not need me. Every time I ask him about taking care of him in Beijing, he refuses me. I do not know if it is what he really thinks.

The flight attendant asked me to turn off electronic devices now. So I have to stop writing. Hope our trip in Kunming will be uneventful…

Yanmei

Thank You

As a traveler I think the most important phrase is “Thank you.” That was what I learned to say before each country we traveled to. Even if you can't speak the local language and talk in English or gestures, it is nice to be able to thank someone in their native language. Second most important for me is “I'm sorry” or “excuse me”. That is very useful when on crowded buses or trains and you have to push by someone to get off. Third is probably “where is the bathroom?” or simply “toilet?” which gets the message across.

Anyway, here is how to say “Thank you”, in every country we visited, at least how it sounded to me. Please don't get too offended if I mangled your native language, I was trying 🙂 :

Taiwan (mandarin), China: Shi-shi

Korea: Gamsameeda

Egypt (Arabic): Shockram

Zurich – Switzerland, Vienna – Austria (German): Danke

Geneva – Switzerland (French), France: Merci

Spain: Gracias

Italy, Vatican City: Gratzie

Hungary: Kusonome

Czech Republic: Dekuji

Poland: Dziekuji (very similar to Czech)

Norway: Takk (pronounced like talk)

Denmark: Tack (like tact)

Iceland: this is the one I didn't learn. Supposedly it is similar to Danish (tack) but they add several syllables to differentiate from Denmark. Just saying “tack” is frowned upon, so I went with “Thank you” which everyone understood.

Canada, U.S.A.: Thanks.

 

-David

 

Living in Beijing, part 2

It's actually pretty interesting living in an apartment instead of a hotel. It gives us a feel of what it is really like to live in Beijing. Of course Yanmei already knows this, but for me it is new. Similar to Taiwan the bed is very hard, like a box spring with no mattress. Even Yanmei doesn't like the hard beds anymore. To make it a bit more comfortable we moved the pillows from the couch to the bed.

Left is kitchen, right is bathroom, 2nd right is bedroom
The apartment is pretty nice, I'd estimate about 500 sqft, maybe a bit more. It even has a clothes washer, although no drier, so we hang our clothes everywhere to dry.
Kitchen

The TV has a lot of channels. There are at least three video game channels and two channels that always show games of Go. I've found I can watch NBA playoff games live in the morning (we're 12 hours ahead) but with Chinese announcers. I discovered one channel that plays Hollywood movies undubbed from 6pm to midnight. Since there is no Internet I watch that channel a lot. Finally saw Rocky V, and a pretty good movie called Doubt, starring Philip Seymour Hoffman and Meryl Streep. Yanmei recently discovered an English news channel.

Bathroom, washing machine but no dryer

We live in a pretty dense apartment complex. On the first floor outside there are restaurants, convenience stores, phone shops, etc. Since the weather is nice the restaurants set up tables and chairs outside. It always seems pretty active, even at say 9:30pm on a Tuesday night there will be people out drinking and eating on the patios.

The common hallways in the building have sound activated lights. I understand it makes sense to have the lights go off when no one is there, but sound sensors don't seem ideal. When we come back late at night we have to make noise to make the lights come on. Usually it takes stomping our feet loudly.

There is a morning market that sets up across the street every day. Originally Yanmei liked this, but then we found their produce wasn't good quality so we stopped going there. About a block away is a WuMart, which is a lot like Walmart, they sell just about everything (except deodorant). We ended up doing most of our grocery shopping at WuMart.

WuMart or Walmart?

We also bought a rice cooker there. After using it twice it didn't work very well so Yanmei wanted to return it. One of the things Yanmei likes in the US is most companies have a good return policy. In China they generally don't have this, but WuMart had a sign that said you could return within 14 days, so she wanted to return it. We took it back and she ended up in a heated discussion with two people at the customer service desk. BTW, this is a $15 rice cooker, not a big ticket item. Finally she told me they didn't believe it wasn't working and wanted to test it. So they actually got some rice and water and set about cooking a batch of rice! We didn't want to watch rice cook, so Yanmei gave them her phone number, and we left. They called about half an hour later and said it was working fine and said we were using too much water, so they wouldn't accept the return. So we just abandoned it at the store, no refund.

For some reason deodorant isn't common here. I wish Yanmei had told me that, I would have brought extra. She said Chinese don't have that problem, but based on some of the taxi drivers or the crowded subway on a hot afternoon, I have to disagree. 🙂

The nearest subway station is about a mile away. We take the subway almost everywhere we go. Since we don't want to walk a mile we take an unlicensed taxi every time. These are lined up outside the apartments waiting for customers. They are regular cars with a red LED light hanging from the rear view mirror that indicates they are for hire. It costs 10 yuan for a ride to the subway, which is about $1.50, so worth it. Where we are there do not seem to be many licensed taxis. Downtown there are a lot of taxis but they are almost impossible to flag down. They all use smartphone apps like Über. If you don't have the app you are not likely to get a cab. I should also mention all the taxis have seat covers which block the use of seatbelts in the back.

The Beijing subway is very good. It seems less crowded this time, although still busy. Yanmei said the price is more than double what it was 2 years ago, so that may explain it being less crowded. All bags have to be scanned, and some stations have an airport style metal detector with guards with wands. One time we went at rush hour and it was crowded so they just let everyone through without scanning anything, which makes me wonder what the point is. As an aside I feel the same way about airport security. Suddenly at Christmas because it is busy and people are running late we no longer need to remove our shoes, jackets or laptops, and we use the old metal detectors instead of the body scanners. So why do we need all those checks the rest of the year?

Some of the lines have screens in the tunnels that play ads. They must sync the refresh rate of the screen with the movement of the car because the images appear steady while the car is moving.

Subway ad in tunnel while moving

All the stations are announced in Mandarin and English. Amusingly I can understand the Beijing subway announcements better than I can understand the BART or TTC station announcements, which are usually garbled or at much too low volume.

The city is huge. For example it took us two hours and two transfers to visit one of Yanmei's friends who lives on the other side of town. We live near Huilongguan station on Line 13.

Based on purely anecdotal evidence I feel like there may be a real estate bubble here. There is still a lot of construction going on and many of Yanmei's family and friends already own second apartments. I don't know what the prices are like, but when everyone starts buying investment properties it can be a sign of a bubble. Also I think the stock market is in a bubble too. I heard on the aforementioned English news station that the Shanghai stock index is up over 110% in the last 12 months, despite the Chinese economy having its slowest growth in a decade. They also said over 45% of the listed stocks have P/E ratios greater than 100! That is a recipe for trouble, see the dot com bubble. We'll see, maybe everyone is buying properties because they doubled their money in the stock market.

-David