Rome

We decided to go to Rome. I never plan to drive in Rome, except when I return the car. To get there we planned to drive the car to the end of the subway, park there and take the metro into town. The station is about 15-20 minutes drive. The last little bit right before the station is a confusing set of turns. The hotel proprietor printed out a special map for this part. He also mentioned the entrance to the parking garage is tricky to find.

With Yanmei navigating we managed to get there without trouble, but we didn't find the entrance to the parking garage. We could see it behind the station, but all the roads seeming to go there were one way coming out. We pulled into the free outside parking area and by a miracle found a spot as someone was leaving.

Rome metro

The Rome subway is surprisingly undeveloped compared to the other cities we've visited. There is an A and B line and an airport train, and that is it. They are working on a third line but it is 15 years behind schedule so far (was supposed to open in 2000). At least it is easy to find your way around. Paris and Seoul have apps that tell you the best way to get between two stations, because there are usually multiple options.

 

Paris metro map, for comparison

First stop, the Colosseum.

This is basically the view you get as you exit the metro station

To go inside you can either line up and pay €12, or you can join a skip-the-line tour group for a higher price which also includes a tour guide. We joined a group and it cost €30 each, but was well worth it not to wait in a long line. It was a hot day. The guide was basically useless, providing very little information I didn't know. The one useful bit was that she said all the parts made from brick were restorations from the 1800s, only the large stone blocks are original. Unfortunately the majority is restoration. The Colosseum was used as a quarry for about 1000 years after they stopped holding games, meaning they dismantled it to use the stone in other buildings. Unfortunately it is a common theme.

Original arch, restored brick arch on the left

After the tour we had some free time to look around, before a second tour of the Palatine hill (included with our €30). Luckily the second guide was much better. Palatine hill is where the palace of the emperors was. It was five stories tall, but each story was over 60 feet, so the scope of it was massive. Unfortunately it is mostly buried or gone. We walked for a long way on what the guide said was the third level. It must have dwarfed the scope of places like Versailles.

Emperors' own indoor circus

We ended the tour overlooking a spectacular view of the Roman Forum.

Ruins of the Forum with the Colosseum in the distance
Panorama of Forum from Palatine hill

We walked down and looked around the Forum for a while.

After a while the sun and heat started to get to us so we trudged back to the Metro and headed back to our hotel.

– David

 

Castel Gandolfo, Nemi, Rocca di Papa

The first day we decided to drive around to some small downs nearby. The proprietor of our hotel was very enthusiastic about this idea and gave us lots of recommendations. There are two small lakes in the area and some of the views are supposed to be great.

We got off to a late start and stopped at a restaurant in Castel Gandolfo that he recommended.

Great view, but as I've found in other restaurants with great views, the food left something to be desired.

View across the lake
Close up of the town, Rocca di Papa, across the lake
Rough map of our route

We didn't find much in Nemi so we continued to Rocca di Pappa. At one point the road did a spiral to gain altitude, which was interesting, but we didn't get a picture.

Ancient Romans used to build no more than seven stories, a tradition that is often kept today, because who wants to climb more than seven flights of stairs to get home?
We found a church with a cemetery on the side of the hill. Almost every tomb had fresh flowers.

We kept going up hill until we were forced to go down a very narrow road. It was so narrow I was worried we'd scrape the side view mirrors. The picture it is already widening in the picture below.

Approaching a church on a hill
Alternate view of church we were approaching down the steep hill

We found a spot to park on the street. We saw it was pay parking and you had to buy a ticket at the pay station, so we went to pay. For some reason Yanmei took a photo of that. I thought it said €0.80/hr, so I put in two Euro to be safe, but I must have misunderstood something because it gave me a ticket good until 9:30am the next day.

As I was doing this a young girl ran up to us and said something in Italian. Yanmei asked if she wanted to help us and if she spoke English. She said “no” and ran off. I went back to the car to put the ticket there and a local polizia was already standing at my car writing. I showed him my paid ticket and he let me off, lol. Maybe that was what the girl was telling us. Anyway that polizia was diligent, later I saw him standing beside a spot as a guy was trying to parallel park into it, ready to start writing as soon as he finished.

Yanmei with a couple of kids in the park

Finally we headed back to our room where we could watch the sun set over Rome.

Night view of Rome from our room.

-David

 

Barcelona to Rome

Our flexible planning strategy didn't work out for Barcelona. We both wanted to stay there longer. Our next stop is Rome, and Barcelona to Rome by train is 20+ hours, and it is under 2 by plane. The problem is you can't just show up at the airport and buy a ticket like you can with the train, so we made a reservation and stuck to it. Barcelona is a city we will come back to I think.

Before we left we did manage to visit the Veeva European HQ.

Yanmei in front of the 1000 employees poster
Yanmei and me on the roof of the office building

Anyway we left for Rome. Yanmei wanted to spend some time in the French countryside, visiting small towns etc. Originally we planned to go back through France by train to Italy, but after we found out how long it would take, we decided to take the plane directly instead of sacrificing future cities in Europe. It seems like we have a lot of time, but Yanmei's visa only allows for 41 days in Europe and they are going by fast. To make up for missing the French countryside, I booked a hotel in a small village outside of Rome, so we can experience the Italian countryside. I also reserved a rental car so we could drive around.

After another bad experience with Hertz (our “reserved” car for 12:30pm wasn't ready until 2:30pm), we finally got on the road to our hotel. Driving in Italy isn't bad, so far, but maybe that is because we haven't gone into Rome. The car we ended up getting was a Fiat Panda diesel with manual transmission, not what we reserved but whatever, it seems pretty nice. We're staying in a town called Grottaferrata.

View from our balcony with Rome in the distance

In the evening we went into town for dinner. I think this was a pretty authentic Italian place.

-David