Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

The next day, Saturday, we got up early and left for Sigiriya at 5:30am, with Namil, the General, driving us, and Ajit, the principal accompanying us again. It is about a 2 hour drive and leaving this early let us avoid the traffic and arrive early, which turned out to be important.

Sigiriya is a UNESCO World Heritage Site centered around a 650 ft tall column of rock. About 1500 years ago a Sri Lanka king built his palace on the top.

There were lots of ruins surrounding the main attraction, but Yanmei wanted to hurry to the rock to start climbing.

Boulder Arch.

Mirror wall. In the ancient past this wall was supposedly polished so smoothly you could see your reflection in it. Now it is covered in graffiti, but some of the graffiti itself is over 1200 years old. Above the wall you can see a spiral staircase leading up to a cave, the cave contains ancient paintings of topless women. No photos were allowed in this area. They think the entire side of the mountain may have been painted at one point, but only the paintings sheltered in the cave survived.

Just before the spiral staircase you can see a sign.

This was a bit scary. If there was a wasp attack, people panicking and pushing on these narrow and steep steps would be a nightmare. We got through there to a small plateau where the lion’s paw entrance was. There used to be a lion’s head above the entrance, but unfortunately it collapsed a long time ago. You can see some holes in the rock where they attached it.

Finally we made the summit. I was drenched with sweat, but the views were spectacular. The video below gives a better feel for it than pictures. Yanmei forgot she was recording, so it has a very natural feel.

It really is incredible the amount of effort it must have taken to build this on top of almost sheer cliffs. They must have hauled millions of bricks up by hand.

Heading back down is not very easy either. View from above down to the Lion Paw plateau:

On the plateau we saw some monkeys.

Yanmei fed him a couple of shelled peanuts she had bought the previous day from a street vendor. He seemed to like them more than the banana and started following her which made her nervous. Fortunately he wasn’t very persistent.

As we got back to the base we saw the way up was completely jam packed with people moving at a snail’s pace, if at all, and baking in the afternoon sun. I saw so glad we got up early and beat the crowd.

We finally got to the bottom. Yanmei bought me a souvenir T-shirt and we headed back to the car. After a short drive to get us out of the immediate tourist area, Namil stopped at a roadside vendor to buy us coconuts. The coconut water is great when you are dehydrated because it contains electrolytes. After drinking the water they split the coconut so you can eat the soft flesh. There isn’t much flesh because these are young coconuts mostly full of water. This was the best coconut I’ve ever had, so sweet and refreshing.

On the way back to Kandy, we stopped at the Dambulla cave temple, which is a Buddhist temple and monastery inside a cave system. It dates back to the third century B.C. and was made into a temple in the first century B.C. and is still in use today. This is also a World Heritage Site.

Up some more steps…

Temple entrance and interior.

Finally we went back to Kandy for a rest.

Yanmei still had enough energy for a quick Sri Lankan cooking lesson from our host Chitra.

Another great day in Sri Lanka!

David

Elephants, children and flowers

The first thing we did in Kandy was go to the elephant orphanage in Pinnawala. The General drove us and picked up his brother-in-law, who is a retired school principal to be our guide. This host is treating us like royalty and really making it a great trip.

We bought one ticket to feed a young elephant milk. There was a huge audience of school children on a field trip watching.

After that we also got to feed an elephant some fruit.

After that the principal told us the elephants would go down to the river for a bath, and we should move down there to get good spots. They actually have to walk through the town to get to the river. I ended up in too good a spot, I was trapped in a corner by myself. The elephants were as close as they looked in this video.

Once we finished watching them in the river, we headed back and I went on an elephant ride. I found out later that this wasn’t part of the orphanage, but was some guys running their own business. Anyway since I’d never ridden an elephant before I gave it a try. It was basically bareback, with nothing but a thin blanket. This actually made it pretty uncomfortable because my legs were spread too wide because the elephant was so big.

After the elephants we drove back to Kandy and stopped at a tea factory for a tour. Tea is one of the biggest exports of Sri Lanka. The tea plants are dried, then ground up, then separated into finer powder for tea bags and larger leaves for loose leaf brewing. They had a pretty interesting machine that separated the loose leaves from the loose stems using static electricity.

After the tea tour and a cup of tea, we got dropped off at the Royal Botanic Gardens. Once again it was full of students on field trips.

We’ve been to a lot of botanic gardens on our trips so it is hard to impress us. They did have a good variety of trees from around the world, and a nice orchid garden.

Finally we walked back to our Airbnb.

David

Colombo to Kandy

So we took the train from Colombo to Kandy. We had 1st class reserved seats in an air conditioned car, but it turns out we didn’t really need them. Yanmei took a tour of the train as shown in this video.

The train left on time and arrived early, but it still took over 3 hours to travel about 120km. It moves at a pretty leisurely pace and made frequent stops. The scenery was quite beautiful for much of the route.

Our host came to pick us up and drive us to their house. I saw on their house it said Major General, and I asked if he was a General in the Sri Lankan army, and he is, although he is retired now. When we arrived his wife prepared a lovely Sri Lankan lunch for us.

David