Cooking in Kuala Lumpur

For Valentine’s Day we decided to take a Malay cooking class. We booked with Lazat Cooking. It started at 8am at a wet market. Wet markets sell fresh meat and produce. First we had breakfast consisting of roti canai and some curry sauces, with tea. Roti canai is a thin bread they make by spinning and tossing a little bit similar to pizza, then when it is very thin it is cooked quickly on a hot plate. After breakfast we had a tour of the market and learned about the history and uses of various fish and produce. Our group consisted of Mike (also from Toronto, but now lives in Portland), and a couple from the UK with their 10 year old daughter. It was a good group.

Our guide said the most important person in the market is the “paste lady”. The paste lady makes the fresh pastes for curries. During the cooking class we would find out why the paste lady is call a Malay woman’s best friend. The paste lady at this market was ranked #1 in Kuala Lumpur and actually runs a factory that makes popular pastes, but she keeps this market stall open because it has been in her family for so long. She is the silver haired woman in the middle of the photo below.

After the market we headed to the cooking class. The first thing we made was called Otak-otak, which is fish in a spice paste steamed in a banana leaf. We made the spice paste the traditional way, with a mortar and pestle. The spice paste was made of lemon grass, turmeric, ginger, garlic, galangal (similar to ginger), red chili, shallots and candle nuts, all fresh. These are pounded and ground together until they are a paste. It is quite an arduous task, which is why most people prefer to buy their spice and curry pastes from the paste lady.

Once it was finally a paste, we mixed it with an egg and a few other ingredients, then added the fish, and wrapped in banana leaves, and steamed.

It was quite good. Not that spicy even though it had a chili in it. They told us Malay food tends to be lest spicy than Thai and some other cuisines. Technically we are cooking Nyonya cuisine, which is a mix of Malay and Chinese created when Some Chinese immigrated to Malaysia about 500 years ago. They have seven flavors and every dish is supposed to have some element of each. They are sweet, sour, bitter, salty, savory, fragrant and creamy.

For our main course we made chicken curry and roti jala. Since the curry takes a while to cook and infuse the flavors throughout the dish, we made Onde Onde for desert while we waited. It is basically dough wrapped around palm sugar, then boiled and coated with shredded coconut.

After that the roti jala, or lace pancake.

Everything was delicious. Although Yanmei said if we make it at home, we’ll use a blender instead of mortar and pestle, and I agree!

By the time we got home it was only 2:30, but we were pretty exhausted. It also started raining in the afternoon, so we mostly rested for the rest of the day.

David

Kuala Lumpur

Our first morning in KL (even the locals seem to call it that), we did some grocery shopping at a regular supermarket. In the afternoon we decided to head downtown to look at the city center. There are a lot of buses, but Google usually estimates 1.5 hours for them to go anywhere. Lots of stops and traffic is terrible here. So we tried the LRT, which is an above ground monorail. It is quite modern and clean. Pretty soon we got close to downtown.

We had dinner in the mall under the Petronas Twin Towers. I wasn’t really interested in going up the twin towers, but there is another tower nearby called the Kuala Lumpur Tower that has good views that I wanted to see. It was getting close to sunset so we hustled over there. It turns out the KL Tower, which is a communication tower is based on the top of a hill. A bit tiring rushing up hill in 90F high humidity weather. The KL Tower observation deck is at 335m, but due to the hill the perspective is above the Petronas Tower peak of 375m.

Made it just in time for sunset. Pretty cool view, there was a rain storm over part of the city and the red light made it seem, so ominous. These pics don’t do it justice.

After sunset we took an Uber home.

David

Singapore 2

One thing I noticed about Singapore is they have toast shops. They are coffee shops, but they serve toast. I tried a couple out while I was there and had French toast and peanut butter toast. Not bad, but the peanut butter toast was literally just store bought bread toasted with peanut butter. At least it was only $1.

Anyway since all the Bayfront stuff was closed when I got there the previous night, I wanted to go again and see inside and go up on the skywalk in the supertree grove. Yanmei and I had lunch at a good restaurant in Chinatown, and as we were leaving the restaurant we saw a bus going to Harbourfront stopped right in front of us. Great, let’s hop on! After a little while I noticed the bus seemed to be going the wrong way, and then I realized Harbourfront isn’t Bayfront. It turns out the Harbourfront bus takes you to VivoCity, which is the biggest shopping mall in Singapore. We spent about half the day there, and I saw maybe 25% of it and Yanmei saw less because she found several shops she liked and spent a lot of time there. She bought five new clothes. We may have to buy another suitcase at this rate. To me it was just a shopping mall with the standard stores you find in most malls (Forever 21, Under Armor, Sunglass Hut, etc.), plus some asian brand stores. It was pretty busy, so retail isn’t dead in Singapore yet, although it being the last weekend before CNY probably contributed to that.

We finally headed back and rested a bit before dinner. After dinner I decided to rush over to Bayfront while Yanmei went back to rest. It was already starting to get late, but I got tickets to the two biodomes. The first was the flower dome. Not very impressive to me. I guess I’ve seen too many amazing gardens around the world.

The next dome was the cloud forest dome. Much more impressive, you get a big waterfall right at the entrance, then you can go up to the top and walk down, which also gives you nice views of the city through the dome.

As I finished the cloud forest dome I hurried towards the supertree grove because I knew they didn’t let people on the skywalk after 8:30. It was 7:40pm when I got there and they had a sign up that the skywalk tickets were sold out. Bummer, I should have gone there first and done the domes later. They had a light show at 7:45 though.

After that, I went to the Marina Bay Sands to go up to the observation deck. I have to say the inside is pretty impressive too. The towers are largely hollow which give a huge open feeling inside. If I come back to Singapore I wouldn’t mind staying here. I got up to the observation deck on the 56 floor, which is the bottom deck of the “boat”, the higher decks are reserved for the hotel guests. It is a great view of the city.

View of the domes and gardens, and towards the top you can see all the large ships anchored in the bay.

After that I headed home for the night. That’s it for Singapore. I feel like we could have stayed longer and seen more stuff, but tomorrow we are taking a bus to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

David